Buenos Aries

We arrive just after noon, get a taxi at the airport  and before even leaving the taxi queue our taxi driver seems a bit pissed at another taxi driver whose car is not in a location to his liking. The drivers exchange escalating insults resulting in our driver jumping out of his cab and throwing his half-eaten sandwich at the other driver. Luckily that was the end of that and we get on the road. The driver who I expected to be in a bad mood after that incident gives a very nice tour on the way to the hotel. He tells us lots of interesting information about the city. We have some 30+ hours to explore the downtown area with some 3 million inhabitants (metro area 12 million). Our hotel (Art Hotel) is in the fashionable district of Recoleta. They describe their rooms as cozy, which one might read as small, but with the 15 foot ceiling, the maybe 200 ft2 room seemed large enough and was very comfortable.

Evita Vault

Plaza Evita Statue

The hotel is located very near the La Recoleta Cemetery, a burial area dating from early 1800's. The  most famous resident is Eva Peron, beloved heroine of Argentina who died in 1952. Our first order of business is to see this famous vault. It's a short walk to the cemetery, but one could walk around the place for a long time trying to find the vault location from the map (even after figuring out that her last name is Duarte). 

Recoleta Vaults

We take the easy way out and follow a guided group.... The crypt looks much like the others, except for the flowers and ... crowds. One can not see the famously indestructibly embalmed remains, as they are apparently out of sight underground.... probably a good thing...

We do a self guided walking tour of Recoleta, very high density wealthy area, nice homes/apartments, expensive shopping places... However it loses a bit with smelly garbage left on the sidewalks/ streets in bags for pickup later, not to mention a fair amount of dog dirt on sidewalks, most partially smeared by shoes... Not sure who is responsible to clean it up, apparently not the pet owner....We observed a woman using a spatula to extract, what appeared to be a small stool sample, from a fresh dropping her dog had deposited.... But she left the remainder of the turd on the sidewalk.... Huh? Maybe needed it for Vet analysis? There seems to be a lot of dogs in the area, several guys were seem walking up to 10 dogs at a time.... Amazingly seemed very orderly....No evidence of feral dogs here

We had an unremarkable dinner food wise at a nearby restaurant, it was however remarkable for the way the discussions with the french/italian owner and how the bill was paid. I asked the waiter for 2 glasses of vino casa, he told me they didn't have house wine, and didn't have small bottles either .. So I go to choose a full bottle, the owner then overrules the waiter and offers up 2 'cups' of wine... I think he wanted the rest of the bottle himself... As I was low on Argentine pesos, I offered up a Visa card to pay the bill, the owner immediately offered a 20% discount for cash, I offered US$ but he would not accept, I did have $200ar, not quiet the $208+ $18ar tip he wanted (after the 20% reduction), he finally settled for the $200ar and accepted $18ar on Visa as a tip, this process took about 20minutes to deal with.... Was happy to be out of that place, the waiter had locked the door while this process played out.....

The BUS

After a very decent breakfast at hotel we arranged for a 6:30 evening taxi to the airport and then headed out for a look at Buenos Aires. A morning coffee and then headed to catch the double decker bus for a nice neighborhood tour of downtown BA.... Supposedly, according to their website, we could buy tickets on the bus....we went to the Recoleta stop and tried to get on the bus but were told they had no tickets on this bus, wait for the next one... Another would be rider with 20 minutes more experience than us, noted that the last bus had the same story....

Riot Police waiting for action?

We recalled that the website said tickets could be purchased at the information kiosks, and we had seen one several blocks away the day before.... We headed over to the info kiosk, and I have to say not surprisingly were told that they didn't sell them at this info place, only at the one near bus stop 0 some 3 kms away.... A cab is taken to bus stop 0 and we line up and get a ticket for the 14:00 bus, some 90 minutes from then.... We should have listened to the gods telling us to relax and just hang around.... But no, after a walk around the busy downtown area to kill the 90 minutes, we board the bright yellow monster bus for a rollicking ride in busy traffic for 3 hours. We hear a disembodied english accented voice describe pretty much every piece of architecture ever constructed in downtown Buenos Aires, notable or not... This while sitting in sweltering 34 degree heat on a bench seat designed by the same folks that created the rack for the spanish inquisition.... There were a few interesting sights to see, PDA on a street, Salsa street dancers,  fully loaded riot police with nobody to club... but mostly just streets and traffic in a big city....By the end I would have gladly paid double or more just to exit the bus... 3 hours of my life that I won't get back.... If I had it to do again I would take in a Tango dance, the zoo, or anything else...

Spontaneous PDAs common here

Delightful wall Art

Happy to be off the bus we get ice cream and head to the hotel to get our cab.... 

The cab ride to the airport is also interesting, 45 minutes at speeds up to 145 kmh, weaving through traffic, entertained by a Bob Marley greatest hits CD at high volume, being passed by motorcycles on either side, sometimes both at once, driving on the shoulder passing on the right side of freeways.... Driving rules are mere guidelines here.... With delight that no crashes occurred, I pay the driver and head for sanctuary in the airport....

An uneventful 17 hours pass, 2 more airline flights for a total of 9 over the entire trip and we are back on the ground in Calgary, 30 days that include some of the most interesting places and sites on the planet we are lucky to have this experience....

Iguazu Falls, February 11 2012

We are done with the self propelled adventures and now are ready to see one of the runners up to the new seven natural wonders of the modern world, at least as determined by voters encouraged by tour promoters...

It is after dark when we arrive and a we enjoy a 25km taxi ride to our Puerto Iguazu, Argentina accommodation ( Hotel Jardine), this will be the priciest accomodation of the entire trip.... Iguazu Falls is expensive, bring money.... we find a place open and replenish with the usual beer and pizza. Even after 11 PM its 28 degrees and the beer bottles are served in insulated cozies. Tomorrow the falls... We arrange for a taxi to get us to the Nacional Parque for 8:30.

It is $200ar return taxi ride to the park, where a $100ar entry fee per each fee is extracted... You are then free to roam as you wish to see the magnificent falls from a number of vantage points and positions We start with the micro train to the devils throat walkways. at 8:30AM already jammed full with eager riders, looking forward to a glimpse of the fabled falls....

The train pukes out its cargo at the station and the folks race purposefully toward the rising mist some 1100m distance as recorded on signs. The walkway is an engineering marvel itself, possibly could be recognized in its own right the next time civil engineers vote on the 7 wondrous walkways of the world.... 

It is a series of bridges, trail and boardwalks that span river, rock and vegetation to get the lookers to the brink of the falls.... There is an amazing number of people here, I see a guy carrying a step ladder, wonder what that might be for? It soon becomes apparent.... at the main lookout photographers and guides use the ladders to see and take pictures over the mass of humanity pressing against the fence to see the water falling...

And the falls do not disappoint, there is indeed much water heading rapidly over the precipice... Again, not a solar eclipse.... But still awesome.... We take many photos, mostly of people taking photos as there are few unobstructed views and nobody without a camera or 2. The video below shows the view from the Devils Throat lookout.

For wildlife, there are large catfish type fish in the river as well we saw a bat caught in a large spider web spanning a 20 foot space... we wondered if the spider was the size of dinner plate, but the local guides we asked later said no, it is a small spider but builds extremely strong and large webs....

We work our way back to the start of trail and board a raft we had arranged to return us to park centre... Now this is a cool trip, for maybe 30 minutes, even though you are in close proximity to thousands of other falls lookers, (I understand that there is capacity for 12000 daily visitors to this attraction, and no doubt a similar number on Brasil side) you feel you are almost in a wilderness. The float on a 12 man oar boat is wonderful, the water is quiet, the oarsman/guide experienced and knowledgeable... We see an Alligator, Turtle, many plants and birds... delightful....

Too soon we are back in the fray, to peek up the skirts and over the shoulders of most of the reported 275 water drops from as many angles as engineeringly possible. The upper trail follows the upper rim of the falls for some 650m providing, some vertigo inspiring views as well as great panoramas of the many cascades.... Not quite as many folks on this trail, maybe the lack of a train to the start puts them off.... Many folks were posing for photos, a few are included here.... Folks also wear interesting headgear...

From the upper trail we head straight for the lower trail, hoping to see all the glory that is Iguazu Falls before powering out. The lower trail is longer, some 2.2 kms which takes you to the base of the falls and glorious panoramic views of the network of falls, you can even get wet in the spray at the closest viewing point....

And it is now time for the highlight event, a side trail from the lower trail takes us to the launch area for a power boat ride up the river (a package deal with the previous raft for $160ar). An opportunity to take photos on a relatively quiet pass and then a christening under the falls themselves.... This did not disappoint, we get many more photos and we are thoroughly soaked by the river.... Some might say almost a religious experience..... Or maybe not...

And it is over in 12 exhilarating minutes.... We make our way back to the park gates, decide we don't need to get our passes stamped to get a 50% discount on an entry tomorrow... Would be hard to recreate the excitement twice in row.... Some use a second day to go to Brasil and look at the falls from the vantage point on that side of the river. An entry Visa is required, costing some $70US...The Brasil vantage point is said to be a more panoramic view as it is from farther away, and you can also see the falls from a helicopter there, which is not allowed by Argentina... Seemed unnecessary to us as had already seen falls up close and personal and from afar....

The remis/taxi is more than 30 minutes late for our pre-arranged pickup time with no explanation, although we see him go by toward the big Sheraton Hotel in the park with a passenger 20 minutes after he was supposed to pick us up....fricking taxis, they are all unreliably the same...

We think an extra day at Puerto Iguasu is not really necessary, we phone the Aerolinus Argentina helpless line to try and get a flight the next day to Buenos Aires and get there a day earlier than planned... They do not disappoint and tell us they can't help us, they suggest that maybe we can get a first class flight if we go to airport but they don't know the cost....wtf? We decide to stay with the original plan....

A couple beers by the hotel micro pool and then to eat. Dinner is indeed a religious experience at restaurant Aqva, a delightful mystery appetizer platter, a glass of wine and an entre of delicious river fish and potatoes, again no cluttering vegetables...a dessert of passion fruit mousse that was a 10 out of 10 and I'm not a dessert fan....

We hang around by the hotel pool on the final day, enjoy the sun, some get sunburned.... Daytime temperatures are 34 degrees, most services open only late in afternoon. 

Dinner again at Aqva, should have stuck with rule of never dining at same place twice.... The same magic was not there.... Maybe the chef gets sunday off?

Rising early we are at the airport by 8:30 and on the scheduled 10:15 flight to Buenos Aires by 10:45...

Bariloche

Arrive Bariloche on Feb 6, Aero Argentina flight from El Calafate.... Approx 2 hours.... Great deal for international travelers on internal flights with Aerolinus Argentina, $200US per flight between any airport.(plus unmentioned airport taxes at El Calafate)....

Much Chocolate...

Bariloche is located on Lago Nahuel Huapi, a large beautiful lake in a spectacular mountain setting.... A fairly big centre with a Zermatt / Banff like central area. Much chocolate to be purchased...Lots of summer activities and skiing in winter. We stayed at View Hotel, which, at least from our room, is true to the name. Staff very helpful with local information.

Spent day 1 locating required services (bus, cervecerias etc), had the obligatory big beef dinner at a local steak house with high ratings.... Lots of beef for decent price, including wine and tip $220ar (Appox $50us)... And they didn't bother us by cluttering our plate with any vegetables...

Rata

Lago Nahuel Huapi

Day 2 we rode a bus 20kms out to a bike rental place near Llao Llao Nacional Pârque.... We rented bikes from Daniel at Cordillera Bike Rentals and Tours, good equipment, mountain bikes that were very effective on both the pavement and the dirt road side trip... The recommended route was about 30 km section of Circuito Chico, a loop into Llao Llao national park... Great riding on decent roads through old growth forest... Lots of up and down, interesting scenery, a delightful bike ride.One of the park wardens had caught a feral ´rata´that he proudly showed off to passersby near Lago Escondido... he described it as muerte to a curious child....fortunately...

Cerveceria Gilbert

A culinary highlight was found at Gilberts cerviceria, a small brew pub with great beer about 5 kms from the end of the loop. They have a fabulous tapa plate of smoked mystery meats, cheese, olives, onions etc.... Delicioso... A highly recommended ride to see Bariloche country side.

Beefed out from the previous night, we found nachos and beer for a snack in evening sufficient to recharge.

Day 3 we went for a hike. To Refugio Frey in nearby Nahuel Huapi national park. We needed to catch the Cerro Catedral bus, which only runs every 90 minutes and had schedule in window of Mayo de 3 bus office. Went to the turista misinformation office, where we had read we could get a bus schedule for the return route 50 bus and were told we could go to the bus depot (10kms away) to get it... Very helpful, maybe we should take a bus?.... But the clerk was excited to get our passport numbers to record she did some work...

Argentine Army training group at Laguna Tonchek

Anyway we eventually got on the 10:00 bus (missing the 8:30 would prove problematic later) and got out to Cerro Catedral to start the walk. We had been told it is a lovely walk to start at Cerro Catedral, take the trail east above Lago Gutierrez and then up to Refugio Frey, returning partially by same route then down to bus 50 at Lago Gutierrez. The trail is very well maintained, new walkway and bridge construction happening as we walked. However, it is in the trees most of the way and views are limited prior to getting to Refugio Frey. Tbe trail was not very busy, a few day hikers and backpackers and a 20 strong Argentine army group on a training trip.They slogged in with apparently very heavy packs and were camping by Refugio Frey with numerous other tents huddled behind rock barriers from the wind.

There were many groups climbing the spire close to the refugio as well as other routes nearby, apparently a very popular rock climbing area.

After the uninspiring walk in the forest to Frey, we were delighted at the alpine country above the hut. Seemed like a good idea to forego the slog back down to Lago Gutierrez and take the high route back to the Cerro Catedral ski area.... How hard could it be? There is supposed to be a Gondola down.....

The walk is brilliant, passing by Laguna Tonchek and Laguna Schmoll, beautiful alpine lakes,on the way to a pass that leads to Cerro Catedral. The outlet stream from Laguna Schmoll has most interesting curious looking small fish making a no doubt very difficult living at this isolated location...

Canca de Futbol

Volcan Tronador from Roca Inclinada

We were fortunate to experience a sunny, calm day.We climb above Laguna Schmoll on a paint marked route to Canca de Futbol and onto Roca Inclinada, the paint markers serve as the trail pretty much all the way to the ski area. The views from the ridge are stunning, rock spires, Volcan Tronador, the peaks of Cerro Catedral.... Absolutely awesome..... We enjoy the views and see the ski area a few kilometres to the north across a steep rugged side slope.... 


The route is well marked, but takes much time to climb up and down over various obstacles... We reach the ski area after 6:00 PM, there are no lifts running, they close at 5:00.... It takes more than 2 hours to descend the 1100m to the parking lot at the base, variously on grooming trails, mountain bike tracks and sidehills, the sun is setting as we observe clearly the last bus of the day to Bariloche leaving the parking area at 7:45, thinking we still have a 20 minute walk to ahead of us, turns out to be 45 minutes... It has taken us over 9 hours elapsed time to traverse the 23.4 kms loop route,with some 1200+m of elevation. We are very tired... but hey it wasn't dark yet....

The ski resort area is deserted, although there are several officers in the Policia office as we walk by, one waves to Elaine.... We find a pizza place that is open nearby...woohoo.... What could be better, beer and pizza...and indeed I rate this meal as the best of the trip, delicioso thin crust pizza with lots of cheese, bacon and olives.... And a litro of Quilmes beer....mmmmm

Using i-phone, google translate spanish we arrange for a remis to take us back to Bariloche...sometimes things just work out....

We remain another full day in Bariloche, feeling no need for additional exercise or excursions.... We hang around town, drink coffee and beer, enjoying the crowds in this lovely setting.... We also enjoy some Patagonian lamb for dinner, one of the ones they roast splayed on a stake crucifixion style in the window, it is delicious, again no vegetables to distract from the main event.

But wait, not done yet... An ash cloud blows into town with shifting winds later in the evening, the views of mountains and lakes are obscured, ash is collecting on horizontal surfaces and is hazy in car headlights.... We wonder about our flight out Buenos Aires the next day....

In the AM, the hotel operator suggests we inquire at the Airline office downtown as he hears flights are being canceled, worst ash from Chilean Volcan Puyehue eruption in 6 months or more... We go to airline office, eventually figure out that we have to take a number, and are told by an apparently under informed agent that we must go to the airport at 2:00 and there we could learn about what to do about our 2:30 flight that may or may not be delayed until 3:35? We leave and over a coffee a few minutes later an email arrives telling us the flight is now cancelled....! It was sent about the time we were at the airline office..... We head back to have a further discussion with the airline folks.... This time the queue is longer.... We meet an agent who is apparently studying to work for the local turista misinformation office, or maybe is a graduate of that establishment? She tells us they can do nothing for us at this office, that we must go to the airport to find out what to do and should be there by 1:30.... We persist and another gentleman confirms we must go to airport and ask for the chief of operations and can maybe get a LAN (competitor airline) flight.... This makes no sense, but we head to airport and get there about noon. We meet an agent who seems well informed, no need to discuss with operations chief, he has already fixed this issue and has booked us and others on an LAN flight, seems LAN has ash tolerance per m3 of air that is twice the Aerolinus Argentina rate and that we can now fly at 2:50..... Simply amazing.... And it actually happens!! We get out of Bariloche and on to Buenos Aries just in time to catch our next flight to Iguaza Falls.... Well almost, the Iguazu Falls flight is fortunately an hour late, so removed the problem of checking in less than 30mins before takeoff... 

Again miraculously things work out and we get to Iguazu Falls.....

Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas

A couple lazy days recovering in Puerto Natales found us drinking coffee and cerveza, Nandu is good for both. We enjoyed a few delicious meals at Baguales brewery and Mesita Grande pizza. Looked around for interesting souvenirs but nothing jumped out, I don't think the wooden indian was for sale... I guess I have more stuff than I need already...

We spent one night at Los Glaciors hotel, decent value, good room.... Enjoyed a chat with a couple of Australian ladies.... They sold their home country well as a place to visit. We returned to Keoken for two nights and enjoyed the hospitality of Rodrigo Munoz and family... Highly recommended...

Puerto Natales Canines

Puerto Natales Trash Bin

Its interesting that all the towns in Patagonia, both Chile and Argentina, have many apparently homeless dogs running loose, saw a pack of 10 in Puerto Natales, they dont seem agressive and Rodrigo told us there is an ongoing debate as to getting rid of them... the dogs seem to have the hearts of the population... luckier than Canmore rabbits..

Punta Arenas Electrical maze

We took the bus Fernandez ($16000cl return each) to Punta Arenas on February 4 hoping to see the Penguins at Isla Magdalena. We toured the downtown square area in the wind and bit of rain, had a decent pizza, fritas and a pint of schop (draft) mmmmm.... Their overhead electrical infrastructure is a complicated sight to behold. The winds were very strong and the penguin trip was cancelled, the penguins will have wait to meet us another time...

Punta Arenas and Strait of Magellan from Ilaia sunroom

We stayed at Hotel Ilaia in Punta Arenas, this place is fabulous, very nice rooms, wifi, laptops and a rooftop sunroom to hang around in and watch the giant white caps on the Strait of Magellan. Oh and the breakfast.... delicious chipatas with avocado/cheese/jam, freshly squeezed jugo naranja... And a hug from the operator on the way out the door....very nice... Good service does still exist....

Back to Puerto Natales on a 3 hour bus ride and then a 7 hour wait for the bus back to El Calafate... The return journey to El Calafate is just as painful as the reverse. A couple hours waiting in line to exit Chile and enter Argentina.... Makes no sense.... The driver when not consuming snacks or chatting with passengers, found the time to stop the bus and get out for a cigarette, about an hour before Calafate.... The rules appear to be very flexible here....

Got into El Calafate after midnight, 6+ hours for less than 350 kms. on good paved roads... No cabs at bus depot, no obvious phone to call one from, no numbers posted. Walked downtown to where I knew from previous visit, the taxi dispatch was located. Lots of fun carrying 70 pounds of lugage. Finally got a taxi there, f**king taxi business... Run only for convenience of taxi owners/drivers... A world wide phenomenon....

We enjoyed our hotel room at Cantera for a total of 7 hours, seemed nice and the freshly squeezed Jugu Naranja was a close second to Ilaia... and then on to airport and onto Bariloche....

Torres del Paine Day 9 February 1 2012

We are on trail a little after 7:00 AM, we want to be sure we are at the dock when the Catamaran departs at 12:30 across Lago Pehoe to take us to the bus....

Lago Grey trail

The trail is excellent all the way, well maintained even with the fire. Evidence of the fire is everywhere as soon as we leave Refugio Grey. Not complete destruction, but substantial areas burned... The fire seemed to jump from area to area, missing large areas here and there, apparently forgetting to return to consume them.

Glaciar Grey and Nunatak

The wind is very strong again today, difficult to stand up in at some of the exposed Miradors. Views of Lago Grey and Glaciar Grey are fabulous. Icebergs are piled up in the south end of Lago. We are happy we are traveling downwind as some ash from fire is blown about by the wind and stings the eyes a bit, worse heading into it according to few travelers we meet later at boat dock.

Icebergs on Lago Grey

Fire remnants approaching Paine Grande

Between Lago Grey and Lago Pehoe

We arrive at Paine Grande Lodge, it is an impressive looking facility, evidence of major fire are everywhere, trees, grass, out buildings, the camping area are completely burned. We had been figuring we would have a celebratory cerveza in the hour we wait for the Catamaran. We find a welcoming message on the chalk board at the main door, but the door is locked and no sign of life inside.  I see some folks in a gazebo behind the lodge and go under the rope to see what status of catamaran is..... A parque da guarda intercepts me and scolds me in spanish for being in restricted area, good thing I don't understand spanish.... He tells me all is closed, but that catamaran will be at dock at 12:30... I hope this is true as have heard it doesn't run if wind is bad.... and it seems to me that wind is pretty bad as gusts over 100 kms/hr making it difficult to stand erect.

Paine Grande Lodge

We are done the walking part of the trek, yes we didn't quite complete the entire "O" circuito as we missed the 5kms from Paine Grande to Italiano camp.... But we are happy with what we did and delighted that we had such good conditions...  In all, we walked over 125 kms of trails through some of the most awesome landscapes on the planet...we are truly just lucky to be here...

In hindsight the impact of the recent fire is small for trekkers doing the "O" or " W" walks, possibly even a positive aspect as they see first hand the natural regeneration process of fire...

Paine Grande Lodge

A number of other folks arrive from Los Cuernos  to queue up for the Catamaran, they complain of ash blowing in their face in the walk from Italiano camp. We see the Catamaran coming across Lago Pehoe, apparently this is not bad wind enough to keep it docked, we wonder what weather bad enough to cancel the boat might be like, frightening I expect... We board the boat, trading places with new fresh faces arriving to start trekking....we are delighted to pay $12000cl each for this pleasure cruise... The alternate being a 20 km walk back to Los Torres...not a happy thought....

Lago Pehoe Catamaran

The water is very rough, but the Catamaran is sturdy and we are excited to ride the waves in it. We observe from the boat that the fire has burned a lot of area around the Lago. At the dock on the east end of Lago Pehoe, more fire damage is evident, the banos are still good to go, but most vegetation is scorched. The wind is extreme, hard to stand up in, pack covers and hats blow away, we are glad to escape the wind and board the bus back to Laguna Amargo.

Torres del Paine is not done with us yet, we travel maybe one km on the gravel road, I am marveling at the enormous waves on the lake, we are the furthest back passengers, a couple rows from the back of bus.... A gust of wind blows the back window into the passenger compartment, bits of safety glass everywhere.... Absolutely amazing....

Lago Pehoe crossing

The remaining 15kms or so back to Laguna Amargo are in a bus cabin filled with dust to add to the scattered glass motif.... Rear windows it seems are not overrated... Some folks were concerned that we would have to ride all the way to Puerto Natales in this bus...however it turned out to be a local shuttle....we are delighted to board Bus Gomez heading back to Puerto Natales.....

  

And just like that it was over....

Torres del Paine Day 8 January 31 2012

Glaciar Grey

Slept late today, must have been relaxed after getting the crux of the trip over. Finished up the last breakfast stuff, bran buds cereal and boiled egg, we started out with 6 eggs, split one all mornings but 1.

Cool Ladders

Los Guardas Camp Toilet

Mostly downhill to Los Guardas camp, but just as 'rugged' as yesterday. There are ladders to assist in traversing 2 gorges, one is easily bypassed. The other ladder is very helpful and fun to use, Elaine exorcised another fear downclimbing this one.

Los Guardas camp, about 4.5 kms from Paso, is a similar parque operated facility(free) maybe a few less sites. Same toilet system, this one a little better as door isn't damaged and actually could be closed. The camp was unoccupied when we passed through.  A short side trail leads to a fine view point of Glaciar Grey.

The rest of trail leading from Los Guardas to Refugio Grey is very good trail, it is clear we are getting back into a more traveled area... The trail even has signs of improvement happening, a suspension bridge was partially constructed not too far up from the refugio. Presumably a lot more water flows earlier in year as gorge was easily crossed without bridge, or maybe customers this close to the refugio demand a higher level of infrastructure? Hopefully this expensive capital project will have ongoing operating resources assigned.

Fire Fighters return from a long day

We arrive at Refugio Grey after 4.5 hours, GPS shows total of 7.6 kms from Paso. Here we see the first signs of the fire, it came close with nearby patches of burned grass and a few trees that had been cut down looked to be slightly burnt. Fire fighters were still around working on remaining underground hot spots. The Refugio is very new, I understand, completed in 2011. A well built facility with rooms and dining as well as camping support building with showers, store(well stocked) and cooking/hanging out area. We get a camp site and, Elaine heads for the shower, while I am setting up camp, a spanish gentleman stops to ask directions, he has no english and me no espanol.. a short nonsensical and apparently unsatisfying discussion ensued, the highlight being when he plucked a rather large black Arana (spider) from my eyebrow and placed it on the tent guy string, I thanked him and he left to seek out more useful help... Elaine has a delightful warm shower as do the Irish guy and his American hiking companion, when my turn comes around, i get a little bit of warm water, then it runs cold, but still great to hose off the trail dust etc, just didn't feel the need to linger....

Refugio Grey Lobby

Well I am in shower Elaine books us a dinner reservation for the early sitting, I am happy at the thought of carrying the tuna and couscous another day. We enjoy a couple cerveza Austral in the common area and chat with the Irish and American guys. They are machines, having done in last 2 days what we did in 4 days, good to be young and fit.... They regaled us with tales of fog, fearsome wind from Perros to the Paso with deep snow at the Paso.... We were happy we had been there the day before.

Refugio Grey

Somehow we decide that we should get a room at the refugio (maybe I should have kept the spider story to myself)... Seems the refugio only reopened a day or 2 before....lots of good reasons not to camp, wind, rain, spiders, leaking DAM... I go and pack up tent, I give the camping tag to an Israeli who stops to chat, another Israeli takes the prime site we had occupied. $7000cl well wasted....

The room is $30000cl, bunk beds, but out of the wind....and we got a 4 bunk room to ourselves.... Woohoo...

We head to the dining area at 7:00, the table is set for 2.... We enjoy a family of 4 portion of smashed potatoes and chicken breast each, shouldn't have filled up on the bread.... It was delicious... They set the table for the late dinner sitting, it is for 8 , but all turn out to be staff... We find out that, including us, there are only 4 people staying at refugio tonight...  the fire has been bad for business...

We enjoy a mini bottle of wine and enjoy the rest in a firm bed that does not deflate....