Saturday, 4 February 2012

Torres del Paine Day 6 January 29 2012

Lago Dickson
Not a real early morning as todays hike is reported to be 9 kms or alternately 6 hours. It rains for awhile and then lets up. Decent views back to Lago Dickson early on. The trail is excellent through old growth forest, great tread.... Best trail of the trip.
Male Megellanic Woodpecker






We see a few birds, including a threesome of
Not the suspension bridge
Megellanic woodpeckers, 2 black  females and a male with a bright red head, polygamous maybe? This is apparently a famous bird as we saw wooden carvings of him available for purchase in Puerto Natales....







Elaine had some concern over this section of trail. Lonely Planet reports a suspension bridge is located in the upper Rio Perros valley to cross this raging torrent named after the drowning an early travelers dog. We never did find this mythical crossing, just 2 sturdy fixed end wooden bridges, no swinging involved.... A bit of a letdown, but not in a bad way...not the first time we notice Lonely Planet to err...



A little while after we don't cross the suspension bridge, we arrive at the terminal moraine above Laguna Perros. Views of Laguna and Glaciar Perros are majestic, this is very remote wild country. We have seen maybe half a dozen people on the trail, our 'hola' is getting rusty from lack of use.







Glaciar Puma
Soon we arrive at Perros camp, with good weather and fine views to Glaciar Puma. It took us close to 6 hours travel time, however the GPS is malfunctioning again, it reports 12.5 kms. At least official time estimates match our times. While Perros camp is still a Refugio, and therefore required to pay some $7000cl to camp, it is very primitive, didn't even sell vino!(just junk food) The camp has showers, but water is cold, we again elect to avoid showering. There is a cooking/hangingout tent that is reported, by at least one Irishman, to be very useful in bad weather, we didnt need as weather was decent. 

I should note that the banos and washing sinks here and at all the Refugios are reasonably clean and well maintained. The sun is out and a good breeze, we dry our gear in short order.

Patagonian Fox
In early evening a patagonian fox is hanging around camp, checking vacated sites for delicious morsels... Other than 2 rabbits just after Seron camp, this is the only non bird wildlife we see... Interestingly there are no squirrel/rodent  type creatures, they dont seem to exist in Patagonia.... No wonder the fox is dumpster diving, cant be a lot of things to choose from.
Perros Camp
Bed time gets earlier each evening, it is a bit cool here, Elaine has elected to wear the sleeping bag as a jacket, we are in tent by 6:30. The Playbook still has some battery life so we watch a movie....

The DAM leak continues, this time Elaine ends up with it, after the movie she notices deflation (up to then I was pleased that the leak in mine had disapppeared). Since I am responsible for the purchase, I kindly  trade DAMs with her. The rate of deflation has increased tonight, I reinflate 3 times during night and am still on ground most of time... Fortunately its not snow under us.










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