Tuesday, 7 February 2012

Torres del Paine Day 8 January 31 2012

Glaciar Grey
Slept late today, must have been relaxed after getting the crux of the trip over. Finished up the last breakfast stuff, bran buds cereal and boiled egg, we started out with 6 eggs, split one all mornings but 1.

Cool Ladders
Los Guardas Camp Toilet







Mostly downhill to Los Guardas camp, but just as 'rugged' as yesterday. There are ladders to assist in traversing 2 gorges, one is easily bypassed. The other ladder is very helpful and fun to use, Elaine exorcised another fear downclimbing this one.
Los Guardas camp, about 4.5 kms from Paso, is a similar parque operated facility(free) maybe a few less sites. Same toilet system, this one a little better as door isn't damaged and actually could be closed. The camp was unoccupied when we passed through.  A short side trail leads to a fine view point of Glaciar Grey.

The rest of trail leading from Los Guardas to Refugio Grey is very good trail, it is clear we are getting back into a more traveled area... The trail even has signs of improvement happening, a suspension bridge was partially constructed not too far up from the refugio. Presumably a lot more water flows earlier in year as gorge was easily crossed without bridge, or maybe customers this close to the refugio demand a higher level of infrastructure? Hopefully this expensive capital project will have ongoing operating resources assigned.

Fire Fighters return from a long day
We arrive at Refugio Grey after 4.5 hours, GPS shows total of 7.6 kms from Paso. Here we see the first signs of the fire, it came close with nearby patches of burned grass and a few trees that had been cut down looked to be slightly burnt. Fire fighters were still around working on remaining underground hot spots. The Refugio is very new, I understand, completed in 2011. A well built facility with rooms and dining as well as camping support building with showers, store(well stocked) and cooking/hanging out area. We get a camp site and, Elaine heads for the shower, while I am setting up camp, a spanish gentleman stops to ask directions, he has no english and me no espanol.. a short nonsensical and apparently unsatisfying discussion ensued, the highlight being when he plucked a rather large black Arana (spider) from my eyebrow and placed it on the tent guy string, I thanked him and he left to seek out more useful help... Elaine has a delightful warm shower as do the Irish guy and his American hiking companion, when my turn comes around, i get a little bit of warm water, then it runs cold, but still great to hose off the trail dust etc, just didn't feel the need to linger....
Refugio Grey Lobby

Well I am in shower Elaine books us a dinner reservation for the early sitting, I am happy at the thought of carrying the tuna and couscous another day. We enjoy a couple cerveza Austral in the common area and chat with the Irish and American guys. They are machines, having done in last 2 days what we did in 4 days, good to be young and fit.... They regaled us with tales of fog, fearsome wind from Perros to the Paso with deep snow at the Paso.... We were happy we had been there the day before.
Refugio Grey



Somehow we decide that we should get a room at the refugio (maybe I should have kept the spider story to myself)... Seems the refugio only reopened a day or 2 before....lots of good reasons not to camp, wind, rain, spiders, leaking DAM... I go and pack up tent, I give the camping tag to an Israeli who stops to chat, another Israeli takes the prime site we had occupied. $7000cl well wasted....

The room is $30000cl, bunk beds, but out of the wind....and we got a 4 bunk room to ourselves.... Woohoo...

We head to the dining area at 7:00, the table is set for 2.... We enjoy a family of 4 portion of smashed potatoes and chicken breast each, shouldn't have filled up on the bread.... It was delicious... They set the table for the late dinner sitting, it is for 8 , but all turn out to be staff... We find out that, including us, there are only 4 people staying at refugio tonight...  the fire has been bad for business...

We enjoy a mini bottle of wine and enjoy the rest in a firm bed that does not deflate....










No comments:

Post a Comment