Torres del Paine Day 4 January 27 2012

Los Cuernos Cabins

Today we begin the main part of the Torres del Paine Circuito trek. The route traverses over 100 kms of trails and a high mountain pass, essentially circum-navigating the Paine/Torres massif. Due to the recent fire the entire western region of the trekking route around Torres del Paine national park is closed, and has been since late December 2011. We hope it may open by the time we get to the boundary of the closed area in a few days, otherwise we will have to retrace our steps.We leave Los Cuernos early, if we feel good we can maybe get to Seron camp today. The first couple hours reverse the trail we did 2 days before, but seem easier in  the cool morning.

Weather is good, trails are not crowded as buses have not yet dropped off fresh meat for the mill. Its about a 4 hour walk back to Hostería Las Torres, which takes pretty much 4 hours.... As we get nearer to the hotel area the trail gets much busier, the hola's increase in frequency.... Occasionally I throw in a howdy to mix it up, a lady asks if I am Australian... I guess my accent is non distinct.....

There is a small store near the Hostería that we supplement our provisions at, some Naranja Jugo, chocolate, nuts and ersatz pringles.... very nutritious....

Feature mutton art at Hosteria Torres

We take the time to look around the big hotel lobby, very impressive place. The lobby is decorated with various cowboy items like saddles and legs of lamb (mutton?) Sadly the gift shop was closed so could not get any tiny replicas....

We continue on a kilometer or so to the Refugio Torres, a hostel near by the hotel, along the way coming across a lookalike to Che's bike from the motorcycle diaries.... could be a fun way to see the area, just have to be an ace mechanic and carry a lot of spares....

Eco Camp

We leave the fine hotel and head over to the refugio and have lunch on the lawn, we decide we are feeling good enough to head to Seron camp some 4 hrs away. Signage to start of trail not clear, we went up to the Eco Camp, a small city of geodesic domes that was apparently a high end tourist place.... A kind guide at the camp showed us through the maze by way of staff area and onto the main trail....

Rio Seron Valley

Seron Camp

The trial to Seron is pretty much a dirt road, much like elbow/sheep roads... No traffic other than couple horses, but clear from tracks that vehicles used it occasionally. Trail follows a fence line on a bench above Rio Seron, through scattered forest with great views of valley and Laguna Azul. We pass a few people... Maybe 10, not so much hola'ing now....Rain starts to fall and we dig out rain gear, I notice awhile later my sunglasses are no longer on my cap.... 








Hmmmm this second pair is now missing as lost a good pair in El Calafate. I run back about a km but dont see them.Now down to 3rd tier glacier glasses....
The rain is short, and  sun returns.... We see a pair of Aguilas in sparsely treed meadow down by river, must be fish here. The day drags on and distance seems far, a tired pair, we arrive at Seron camp at 5:30, GPS shows 26.9 kms vs park map 20 kms.... I need to get GPS repaired I guess.

Seron camp is located on grass flats, a little windy but good for tent. We get camp set up and have another delightful tuna/couscous casserole...again I have to assist Elaine in finishing her share, as there is no backcountry garbage disposal and i don`t want to carry it with.

Seron camp shower

The facility offers banos and showers... The toilets are decent, clean, flush units.... Ahh but the shower... High marks for the water being warm, but lost a Michellin star or 2 as the drain was plugged and there was sufficient hair on the wall and floor that I could have constructed a very credible combover and still had some remaining ... We leave our socks on in shower as they needed a rinse anyway.... I guess it is hard to be perfect...

The little building at the camp, which looks to be a tiny ancient ranch house, also has a store. The litro tetra box of vino blanco at $5000cl is excellent value... We wish for more wind as the mosquitos are fairly aggressive, the deet works well but have to retreat to tent to consume the vino. I manage to spill only one glass on the sleeping bags...